Varanasi, walked with someone born here
I’m Shiva, born in Varanasi. For over 18 years I’ve walked travellers through my city, in English, Hindi or Japanese.
Darbhanga and Munshi Ghat, from the river. Photo courtesy of Riccardo Basilico
Choose your Varanasi
Short walks of 2½ to 5 hours, full days, or two and three-day plans. All private, all with pickup at your hotel, in English, Hindi or Japanese. Not sure? Write to Shiva and he plans it with you.
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Walks · 2½ hours
Sunrise on the Ganga: Boat Ride and Ghats
The river at first light, from a wooden rowing boat, then chai on the steps.
Dawn, about 30 minutes before sunrise
1200 INR a persona · 3000 INR per 3 personeSee details
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Walks · 3 hours
Hidden Alleys and Markets of the Old City
The galis behind the river: shrines, workshops and the markets of Chowk.
Morning or afternoon
1200 INR a persona · 3000 INR per 3 personeSee details
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Walks · 3 hours
Ghats at Sunset and the Evening Ganga Aarti
The ghats in golden light, Manikarnika explained with respect, the aarti after dark.
Late afternoon into evening
1200 INR a persona · 3000 INR per 3 personeSee details
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Walks · 2½ hours
Food and Local Markets Tour
Chai, lassi, kachori and chaat at the stalls of the local markets, a few tastings at a time.
Morning or evening
1600 INR a personaSee details
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Walks · 3 hours
The Silk Weavers of Banaras
Inside the homes where Banarasi saris are still woven by hand.
Daytime, not on Fridays
1200 INR a persona · 3000 INR per 3 personeSee details
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Walks · 4 to 5 hours, by car
Sarnath, Where the Buddha First Taught
A quiet half day at the stupas and museum, ten kilometres from the ghats.
Morning or afternoon, not on Fridays
1200 INR a persona · 3000 INR per 3 persone · transfer da quotare a parteSee details
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Full days · About 9 hours of guiding
Varanasi in One Day: Sunrise to Aarti
The three walks every first-timer wants, in one day, with a rest when it is hot.
Dawn to evening, with a break in the middle
2500 INR a persona · 6000 INR per 3 personeSee details
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Full days · About 8 hours, with lunch break
Sarnath and the Old Markets
Buddhist Sarnath in the morning calm, the noise and colour of Chowk in the afternoon.
Morning to late afternoon, not on Fridays
2500 INR a persona · 6000 INR per 3 personeSee details
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Full days · About 7 hours
Taste and Craft: Food Walk and Silk Weavers
Breakfast on the street, then the looms where Banarasi silk is made.
Morning to afternoon, not on Fridays
2500 INR a persona · 6000 INR per 3 personeSee details
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Multi-day and festivals · 2 days
Varanasi in Two Days
The river, the old city and the aarti on day one; Sarnath and the city’s food on day two.
Two consecutive days
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Multi-day and festivals · 3 days
Varanasi in Three Days
Time to see the city slowly: the river, Sarnath, the markets, the food and the weavers.
Three consecutive days
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Multi-day and festivals · About 4 hours
Dev Deepawali: the Night of Lamps
The full moon of Kartik, when the ghats are lit with countless oil lamps.
Once a year, on the full moon of Kartik (usually November), evening
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Festivals in Varanasi
Festival days change the city completely: more light, more colour, many more people. If your dates fall on one, write to Shiva early and he plans around the crowds.
February or March
Mahashivratri
The great night of Shiva, in Shiva’s own city. Temples stay open through the night and a wedding procession for Shiva winds through the streets.
Tip: Queues at Kashi Vishwanath last hours: Shiva helps you choose when and where to go.
I’ll be there for thisMarch
Holi
In Varanasi the colours start days early, at Rangbhari Ekadashi, and on Holi morning the ghats and lanes fill with powder, music and thandai.
Tip: Wear old clothes, oil your skin and hair, protect your phone and eyes. Mornings are wild, afternoons calm down.
I’ll be there for thisMay or June
Ganga Dussehra
The day the Ganga came down to earth. Crowds bathe at dawn and the evening aarti is bigger and longer than usual.
Tip: It is the hottest time of year: plan the river at dawn and dusk, rest in between.
I’ll be there for thisOctober or November
Diwali
The festival of lights: oil lamps on doorsteps, markets packed in the days before, fireworks after dark.
Tip: The old city is crowded and noisy for days: book your hotel early.
I’ll be there for thisOctober or November, after Diwali
Chhath Puja
Families stand in the river to make offerings to the setting and the rising sun. One of the most moving sights on the ghats.
Tip: Watch from a respectful distance: it is a family ritual, not a show.
I’ll be there for thisNovember, full moon of Kartik
Dev Deepawali
Fifteen days after Diwali the whole riverfront is lit with oil lamps for the gods. One of the most beautiful nights of the year.
Tip: Hotels and boats fill up weeks ahead. See the evening walk Shiva runs for it.
Dev Deepawali: the Night of Lamps
Meeting the Aghoris, on request
The Aghoris are ascetics devoted to Shiva who live by their own rules, often close to the cremation grounds. They are not performers and this is not a show: it is a way of life and a faith they take very seriously.
If you ask in advance, Shiva can try to arrange a meeting. It is never guaranteed, it happens on their terms, and it can go in directions nobody planned. Come with respect and an open mind, or do not come.
- Ask a few days ahead: it may not be possible.
- Follow Shiva’s lead: sit when invited, speak when spoken to.
- No photos unless they clearly say yes.
- An offering may be expected: Shiva tells you what is appropriate.
- Their behaviour can be intense and unpredictable: not for children or anyone who would feel uneasy.
My name is Shiva
Varanasi is the city of Lord Shiva. One of the oldest in the world, 6,000 years old. A magic place. And I am glad to show you my city.
I was born in Varanasi and grew up between these ghats. For more than 18 years I have walked with people from all over the world through the streets I knew as a child. I do it because I love this city and I like meeting people.
No two walks are the same. Before we meet I ask what you are curious about, how much you like to walk, whether you want temples, food, photographs or a quiet hour by the river. Then I build the day around your answers.
You won’t be put in a group with strangers. It’s you, the people you travel with, and me.
How it works
Write to me
On WhatsApp or by email: your dates, how many you are, what draws you to Varanasi.
We plan together
I suggest walks and times that fit the season and the days you have.
I come to you
I meet you at your hotel or guesthouse in Varanasi.
We walk at your pace
Stop, ask, change the plan. The walk follows you.
Plan your trip
- How to Plan a Trip to Varanasi: How Many Days and How to Split ThemHow many days you need, how to split them
- Where to Stay in Varanasi: Which Area Suits YouThe four areas, pros and cons
- Where to Eat in Varanasi: as a Tourist and Like a LocalStreet food and calm cafés
- Manikarnika Ghat: What to Know Before You GoEtiquette and a common scam
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple: a Practical Guide for VisitorsLockers, queues, dress and the corridor
- Holi in Varanasi: What to Expect and How to PrepareColours, crowds and what to wear
- Is Varanasi Safe? A Practical Guide From a LocalScams, crowds and common sense
- From the Airport or Station to Your Hotel in VaranasiAirport, stations and the last stretch on foot
- Varanasi With Children: What Works and What to SkipPace, heat, boats and what to skip
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Varanasi?
October to March is the most comfortable: dry, mild days and cold early mornings in December and January, when fog can delay boats and trains. April to June is very hot. During the monsoon (July to September) the river rises, some ghats flood and boat rides can be suspended.
In which languages are the walks?
In English, Hindi or Japanese. Tell Shiva which you prefer when you write.
How long is a walk?
Most walks last two and a half to three hours. Sarnath takes half a day. We can also combine walks into a full day.
Is it suitable for children or older travellers?
Yes. I adapt the pace and the route. Keep in mind that the ghats have many steep steps and the lanes are uneven; tell me in advance and I plan around it.
What should I wear?
Clothes that cover shoulders and knees, needed to enter temples, and shoes that are easy to take off. From December to February bring a warm layer for the early mornings.
Can I take photos?
Almost everywhere, yes. Not of cremations at Manikarnika, and always ask before photographing people up close. Phones and cameras are not allowed inside the Kashi Vishwanath temple; there are lockers outside.
How do I book?
Write to me on WhatsApp with your dates and the number of people. I reply with a suggested plan and the price for your group.
Ready to see the real Varanasi?
Write to me on WhatsApp. Tell me when you arrive, how many you are and what draws you here. We’ll build the walk together.
Write to Shiva on WhatsAppMeeting point: Your hotel or guesthouse in Varanasi. I come to you.
WhatsApp / Call
+91 96827 26056Instagram
@walk_in_banaras