How to Plan a Trip to Varanasi: How Many Days and How to Split Them
Varanasi rewards slow time and punishes rushed itineraries. Here is how long to stay, how to split the days around sunrise and sunset, and what to sort out before you arrive.
How many days do you need?
Two full days are the minimum to see the city without running. Three days let you add Sarnath, a food walk and some quiet time on the river. One day is possible if your train or flight forces it, but you will see the highlights and little else.
The rhythm of the city is set by the river. The most beautiful hours are at dawn and at sunset; the middle of the day is hot for most of the year and the lanes are crowded. Plan around that and you will enjoy more with less effort.
Varanasi in one day
- Dawn: rowing boat along the ghats, then chai on the steps.
- Morning: the old city lanes, the markets of Chowk and a kachori breakfast.
- Midday: rest at the hotel. It really helps.
- Late afternoon: walk the ghats south to north, stop at Manikarnika.
- Evening: Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, seen from the steps or from a boat.
Varanasi in two days
Day one as above. On day two, go to Sarnath in the morning (about ten kilometres away, half a day by car), rest after lunch, and spend the evening on a food walk in the old city or at the quieter Assi Ghat.
Varanasi in three days
Add the morning programme at Assi Ghat, a visit to a silk weavers’ neighbourhood, and a second boat ride at sunset when the light on the ghats turns gold. Leave one evening free: Varanasi is a city to wander in, not only to visit.
| Morning | Afternoon | Evening | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Sunrise boat, old city | Rest | Ghats and aarti |
| Day 2 | Sarnath | Rest | Food walk |
| Day 3 | Assi Ghat, weavers | Free | Sunset boat |
How to get to Varanasi
- By plane: Lal Bahadur Shastri airport (VNS) is about 25 km from the city. Allow an hour or more by car, depending on traffic.
- By train: the main stations are Varanasi Junction (Cantt) and Banaras. Some long-distance trains stop at Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction, about 17 km away.
- The last stretch: cars cannot reach the ghats. Near the river you walk, or take a cycle or e-rickshaw to the edge of the old city.
When to go
October to March is the most comfortable season. December and January mornings are cold and foggy, which can delay boats and trains. April to June is very hot, and during the monsoon (July to September) the river rises and boat rides can stop. Festivals such as Dev Deepawali in November are spectacular and very crowded: book early.
Mistakes to avoid
- Arriving late in the evening and leaving the next morning: you will see Varanasi only in the dark.
- Planning the hottest hours outdoors.
- Accepting "free" visits that end in a silk shop.
- Agreeing a boat price without saying how long the ride is and where it ends.
Keep some cash in small notes: many stalls, boats and rickshaws do not take cards.