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Holi in Varanasi: What to Expect and How to Prepare

Holi is loud, messy and joyful, and it takes over the old city for days. With the right clothes and a plan, it is one of the best times to be here.

WalkWithShiva · Updated

Marigold sellers at the flower market seen from above

When it happens

Holi falls in March, on the date set by the Hindu calendar, so it changes every year. In Varanasi the colours start a few days earlier, and the morning of the festival is the wildest part of the celebration.

What the day is like

  • Mornings: powder, water and music fill the lanes and the ghats. It is crowded and loud.
  • Afternoons: things calm down, and it is a good time for a rest and a boat ride.
  • Evenings: families gather, and the city is calm again.

What to wear and bring

  • Clothes you do not mind losing: old white or light cotton is best.
  • Closed shoes you can walk in, and sunglasses.
  • Oil on your skin and hair before you go out: it makes the colour easier to wash off.
  • A plastic bag for your phone and camera, and a waterproof case if you can.
  • Cash in small notes, and a bottle of water.

Respect and common sense

Ask before you put colour on someone, and stop if they say no. Some people do not celebrate and will not want to be touched. Do not photograph people up close without asking, and keep away from the cremation ghat on the day.

Book early: hotels and boats fill up, and some streets are closed to cars on the day.